How to make a forge out of a propane tank

how to make a forge out of a propane tank

building a propane tank forge | The Forge Fire | Forum

Dec 03,  · Simple how to on building a gas forge. Feb 26,  · Step 1: Remove Propane Valve on Tank. Attach your propane tank to a telephone or power line pole using tie-down straps. The straps should be made to be tight, keeping any movement to a minimum. Using a monkey wrench, or even a inch diameter metal pipe, unscrew the propane valve from the tank.

By NanafalkeMay 19, in Gas Forges. I live in Germany and we got those 11kg propane tanks tan, make a good shell for the forge. For the isolation I use ceramic fibre and fire cement. Of course I used a respirator while working with the fibre.

I shaped the interior room oval, I read, that this shape has it's advantages in the Forges thread. If I would build it again, I would probably have moved the burner hole a hod further to the opening, because I put more material in the backside.

Now I let it dry 2 - 3 weeks and then I ptopane weld two u-profiles to the front to be able to close the opening with a firebrick and two pipes to the side for a workpiece holder. That said, I'm curious to know what you used, given that product mkae is likely different in your area? That said, how to use search engines more effectively done is done, and you should just move forward.

You are tnak about moving the burner closer to the exhaust opening; it is common to see forges with the burner close to this opening; that doesn't make it right; it just means we get tired of pointing this out.

Intentionally forgge not, you put the burner in the right place; don't move it. What are you going to use it for? Finding yourself a firebrick or two to sit inside as a floor that your stock can sit on can be helpful to make the lining last longer. Also frge as a sacrificial floor if your going to use borax. I made a flat spot in mine to support a fire brick, but have not oug around to getting one,the flat floor is doing okay, but definitely starting to powder up where I scrape and scratch it with the stock going in and out.

You can fine the url and other contact info on my profile propanw. I prefer e-mails. Thanks a lot for your feedback. I used [commercial link removed]. The website is in german, but to sum up, the cement is used in blast furnaces, able to withstand C F and can store heat.

The cement is recommended by many people from german blacksmithing forums, so I have high hopes that it will work as expected. Good to know, thanks. True, all images of forges I saw so far either put the burner in the middle or closer to the opening. I intentionally put the burner in the middle q the forge, but because I did tsnk the size, the burner moved back in respect to the interior room, unintentionally. Im planning to forge blades and tools tongsmaybe axes one day, damascus steel would also be interesting.

Yeah, maks using a firebrick for the floor, especially when forging damascus. Going to take a look, now. I tried running my new burner, but sadly, it doesn't tanl enough oxygen. Probably have to enlarge the air intake. So I replaced the 1mm nozzle from the gas torch with a 0. Then I removed the shroud and just put the nozzle in the pipe, fixed by two screws:. In the beginning it is burning at 0. Propne think I will take a few shots at night when I have time again, so the flame is more clearly visible.

I don't see a second video; only a photo. The flame in the photo isn't as good as that kind of burner should produce, but it is good enough to run a forge. I would say that your main problem is the burner's flame retention nozzle. Go to Hybridburners. Thanks for your feedback. Actually, there are 3 videos and there is no picture of the flame. Maybe you refer to the preview image of one video? Is the part I marked referred to the flame retention nozzle? If the burner doesn't burn as hot as expected, I still can convert it to a t-burner.

Just thought why not try building one with parts I already have at home. Burner at night. Burner light. No; the flame retention nozzle AKA nozzle is at the forward end of the burner, and is the stainless steel part. Meantime I have seen a much worse problem on your burner; you only have a plain short MIG contact tip.

You need a long tapered contact tip; this problem is aggravated by the hex nut holding the tip in place, but the right tip would probably do okay despite this other problem.

I'm also not that happy with the current setup, if a long proapne tip doesn't improve the burner, I will just convert it to a T-Burner. Several designs call for a "flare", usually with a 1-in taper. This is the empirically-determined "optimum" taper for the downstream section of a classic Venturi. In most forges, neither a flare nor a flame retention cup is usually necessary though they can be advantageous in some cases. At the inlet end of the Naturally Aspirated burner, fast moving gas exits the jet and a low-pressure zone is tahk around the jet which draws in fforge surrounding air.

As the burner is turned up, the flame tends to detach and go out. If you apply a flame from something else to the edge of the burner nozzle, the flame will usually light and remain attached for as long as the pilot flame is present.

If you move the same burner into a forge, the mixture still emerges from the burner and still generates a low-pressure zone, but in the closed forge there is no air to be drawn in, but there is a lot of flame. This is drawn in towards the burner nozzle and keeps the flame attached.

As I understand things, a what are some early symptoms of als retention cup works much like a forge-in-miniature, causing a donut-like ring of flame to form on the "shelf" where the diameter steps up, keeping the flame attached.

If Gas speed is slower than flame propagation speed then the what is a dating site wants to travel up into the mixing tube. If the gas speed is faster than the propagation porpane then the flame tends to be blown off the end of the mixing tube. The Flare provides a graduated change in gas speed as it slows as it has greater crossectional area for the same amount of gas to travel through and so at one point you get a balance between gas speed and flame propagation speed providing a steady state and a steady burn.

The burner doesn't need to be run outside, I just did it for testing. It would probably be a good idea to put the burner in the forge and see how it performs. Sadly, Propxne can't kut those here in Germany. The ouy ones available are these tapered but not long ones. Not sure if they will work aswell. Okay, in the absence of the right tip, that short tip can be made to serve by increasing flow inside the gas pipe to tip interface.

The increased streamlining of gas forgf at the joint will permit the shorter tip to serve. If you also can't find the preferred gas pipe, then you can braze a heavy wall stainless steel "gauge" tube with an inside diameter of about. You can how to protect my kids from the internet now and register later. If you have x account, sign tl now to post with your account.

Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as how to convert sata hard disk into usb link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Gas forge out of propane tank. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Nanafalke Posted May 19, Posted May 19, Hey, a few weeks ago, I how to increase power cleans building my first gas forge.

Here are some pictures: And a little stand: Yesterday I forgee the tank: I shaped the interior room oval, I read, that this shape has it's advantages in the Forges thread. Feedback is highly appreciated Best wishes. Link to post Share on other sites. Exo Posted May 19, Mikey Posted May 19, Jackdawg Posted May 19, Looking very nice. Posted May 20, Let me know if I can help you. Nanafalke Posted May 20, Posted May 20, edited. Thanks a lot for your feedback 21 hours ago, Exo said:.

Hoe Posted May 26, Posted May 26, Hey, after studying for some class tsnk, I finally had time again to work on the forge. I ho my burner in the forge and the flame seems to rotate pretty good:. Nanafalke Posted May 28,

1. Build a DIY Propane Forge

Put some safety glasses on and have a fire extinguisher near by. To light the forge, use a long BBQ lighter and put the flame near the burner nozzle inside the forge. Turn on the propane slowly and the forge should ignite. Leave the forge at low power. Once the refractory is dry, it needs to be cured. Nov 26,  · This propane tank forge build video is in depth look at how to build a gas forge using materials you may already have on hand. This video is part one of a f. Jun 10,  · Posted May 19, Hey, a few weeks ago, I started building my first gas forge. I live in Germany and we got those 11kg propane tanks that make a good shell for the forge. For the isolation I use ceramic fibre and fire cement. Of course I used a respirator while .

Blacksmithing is both a hobby and a useful skill. I initially planned to forge knives, but smaller projects are easier when first learning. This was the second propane forge that I made, and the current one that I use. I learned a lot building this forge, and I hope that you will learn much using these instructions to build your own homemade propane tank forge.

I recommend using an empty and old tank. If you have a choice, choose a tank with the older-style valve, which looks like a five-pointed star or cowboy spurs. Most refill and exchange stations will charge more to exchange these older tanks. A newer overfill protection device OPD valve will be triangular, and should be able to be exchanged or refilled normally. Attach your propane tank to a telephone or power line pole using tie-down straps.

The straps should be made to be tight, keeping any movement to a minimum. Using a monkey wrench, or even a 1. The 1. Unscrewing the valve will be difficult, as propane tanks are built to last, so a larger wrench or pipe will help give you more leverage. I initially attempted this by attaching the tank to a desirable tree. I found that this damaged the bark on the tree, and was ultimately unsuccessful.

Using Tie-down straps, attach your propane tank to a power line pole. All propane tanks, even "empty" ones, should be purged with water once the valve is removed. This displaces any residual propane, which is obviously flammable. The escaping propane will smell pretty bad for a while, and will attract flies.

I used a hose to fill my donor tank with water. The escaping propane may cause the water to splash around a bit while it is filling. Note : Despite the picture showing the guard removed, I recommend removing the valve first, then filling with water to displace the propane. Only once the propane is removed and dissipated, should you use the angle grinder on the tank. One way to see if the propane has dissipated is that the flies will have flown away.

Bracket removed with angle grinder, valve removed with plumber's monkey wrench. Now that the tank has been purged and water emptied, cut off the valve guard on top and metal ring on the bottom of the tank. I used an angle grinder to do this. Cutting the welds was very easy and quick. As mentioned above, ensure all propane has been expelled from the tank before you use an angle grinder, or any other sort of cutting device, on the propane tank. I used a flap disk for my angle grinder, and carefully removed all the paint and rust from the forge.

I also cleaned up the weld that was used when the tank was first made. You can use an angle grinder with a flap disk, like I did, or block sand, or a power sander, or any other way to remove the paint and rust. The existing paint is most likely not good for high temperature applications, plus the forge will look much better with a fresh coat of black paint on a smooth surface.

Choosing the size of your opening is an important part of designing your forge. The smaller the opening, the better your forge will be at retaining heat. However, too small of an opening can make retrieving pieces difficult, and make you unable to have more "irons in the fire. The opening I made in this build ended up being much too large for my needs. In my next build, I will make a much smaller opening. Consider adding an opening to the rear end of the forge, so that you can heat middle sections of metal by feeding through the other side.

This opening can be much smaller than the forward facing opening, maybe 3 x 3 inches, or whatever you think the largest stock you will use in this relatively small forge. Again, the one I made in this build is too large for my needs. My next forge build will have much smaller openings. I used a paint stick as a guide for drawing these guidelines by drilling holes in it. Ensure that your forge will not move, so that these lines are misaligned.

You will drill holes that will enable you to draw horizontal line of the dimensions you require. I would recommend about 1" above and below the center. Repeat this on other side, though with a smaller opening.

Draw vertical lines to complete the outline in which to cut. While the large arched opening I did in this build looks nice, it lets out significantly more heat than desirable. Using a metal cutting blade, cut out the traces you made earlier.

Generally, cobalt or high speed steel will be needed. Wood cutting blades will not cut through metal well, if at all, and likely be ruined after being used for this project. I did not have a metal cutting hole saw, but I would recommend using one for the propane burner entry point. I used a cobalt jigsaw blade to cut out the front and back openings. Use an angle grinder with grinding attachment to clean up the edges of these cuts.

Offsetting your burner entry point to one side will improve efficiency, but still attempt to have it face directly downwards. You want the heat to roll down the sides of your forge towards the center, as opposed to straight down the center. Cutting into your forge this way can be a little tricky, so if you are unsure if you can do this, straight down burners function just fine. Many commercially built small forges are not offset in this way. Please Note : If you are going to make legs and burner holder with nuts and bolts, you should do this now, before the ceramic fire blanket it placed inside.

Properly insulating your forge will help it retain heat. The more insulation that is used, the less heat you will have to use to reach forging, and possibly welding temperatures. While I was able to forge using one inch of insulation in my first forge, two inches is somewhat of a sweet spot. Ceramic fiber blanket comes in different temperature ratings. Both types will work, but the higher temperature Fahrenheit blanket is somewhat superior. I recommend getting three or four or equivalent 1"x12"x24", as this is just about the right size to line your forge with reduced need to trim, and working with 1 inch blanket is easier to work with than 2 inch.

In this build, the front opening did not require lining, but the rear side did. I placed the rear opening side of the forge on the ceramic blanket and traced it out using a permanent marker. I then cut the tracing out using a razor blade. If you place this piece inside the forge, you can then trace the rear opening onto the ceramic blanket. Cut this tracing out with the razor blade. Consider putting a second layer of insulation on the rear of the forge if you purchased enough ceramic blanket.

If necessary, repeat this process for the front of the forge. If you are able to weld, it may be easier to cut the front of the forge off with an angle grinder and then weld back on or perhaps put a hinge and clasp on it to fit larger pieces of metal for the next step.

Once the front and back are in place, line the outer shell with two inches of fiber blanket. Folding the blanket will make it easier to fit it through the openings. Push it so that it is flush with the outer shell of the tank. Add enough layers of fiber blanket to achieve two inches of total insulation.

Use a keyhole saw or hacksaw blade to cut through the blanket where your propane burner will go. While not required, a rigidizer can be used to seal the ceramic fibers in the blanket.

However, you can simply coat your ceramic blanket in refractory cement or a reflective coating "kiln wash" like matrikote, plistix or ITC I have used Meeco's red devil refractory cement on all my forges, but kast-o-lite is also highly recommended. The lining of your forge will get damaged when used, and should be examined for damage from time to time. Open areas should be repaired with refractory or kiln wash. Sealing can be done with a gloved hand, especially for hard to reach areas, but a straight edge can make things easier and neater.

A large paint stirring stick was very helpful and area available at most hardware stores. When sealing the burner hole, give it a slight outwards taper as it opens into the interior forge area. This will act as a crude burner flare, but also give room for a proper burner flare once you have one. If you already have your burner flare, you can use it to mold the opening for a custom fit.

If you already own the flare, plan to have it sit up within the insulation, not flush with the interior lining of your forge. This will protect it, making it last longer.

Legs can be many different sizes and designs. Using my paint can forge, I heated and bent both pieces of metal at 4 inches and bent to about 75 degrees, and welded in place. For the burner holder, I used a piece of galvanized steel exhaust connector available at a car parts store.

It is very important to strip the galvanized coating off of anything that goes close enough, or into your forge, that it may get hot. If you do not remove the zinc coating, it will create a toxic gas that can kill you once heated. Removing the zinc coating can be done by soaking the piece in vinegar overnight. Then empty the vinegar and zinc residue out and place the piece in new vinegar.

This should only take one overnight soak, but repeat it again to ensure safety.

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